AFTER THE STORM
Published in ARISE
Diverse yet unifying, Kenya’s festival for african fashion and arts was a glamorous triumph of creativity over adversity
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From adversity comes strength. that was Scottish designer Ann McCreath’s philosophy in the wake of the violent unrest and ethnic tension that threatened to tear Kenya apart after the December 2007 elections. McCreath, who moved to Kenya in 1992 and established her Afrocentric label KikoRomeo there in 1996, was so depressed by the crisis that she decided to fight fire with fashion. "I was invited to show at Afric collection in doula, cameroon in February 2008, where designers from around the continent consoled me as they had already been through many such hardships themselves. while I was there, the malian fashion designer Alphadi challenged me to set up a fashion event in kenya to promote peace. I took this challenge seriously and headed back to Kenya to get started."
And so the Festival for African Fashion and Arts (FAFA) was born. Within weeks McCreath and her team had - against all odds - put together a fashion spectacular, the likes of which Kenya had never seen. Held in the heart of Nairobi National Park on May 24 2008, the 1,000-strong audience enjoyed a catwalk show by 13 African designers. "The goodwill was extraordinary. Everyone was united in the desire to do something positive for the country and the show’s energy was mind- blowing," McCreath recalls. "FAFA is all about the artist in society opening the minds of other citizens to different cultures and ideas. Kenya is made up of over 40 communities, each with its own identity. This should be a positive thing; however, most people retreat to familiar ground when faced with the unknown, and this can be manipulated politically. Focusing on the positive aspects of diversity, through creativity and glamour, FAFA unites people."
BIGGER AND BETTER
Spurred on by the success of the inaugural gala, McCreath was determined that FAFA 2009 would be bigger and better, and in doing so educate people internationally about fashion from Africa. "African fashion is as diverse as the continent, so we wanted to include designers from several countries and embrace different concepts of dress. Senegal’s Mame Faguèye Bâ’s sculptural headgear and ornate details are unique. South Africa’s Thula Sindi is young and fresh, a real inspiration to the many young Kenyan designers trying to make it. And Ghana’s Kofi Ansah was an obvious choice - not only is he an outstanding designer, reinterpreting traditional fabrics and techniques, he’s also very knowledgeable about the fashion industry and how to take it to another level in Africa."
INTERNATIONAL TRENDS
Joining these designers for the April 25 show were Arapapa (Uganda) and Doreen Mashika (Zanzibar) as well as Kenyans Betty Vanetti, John Kaveke, Kooroo, Monica Kanari and Patricia Mbela. Folake Folarin-Coker of Nigerian luxury brand Tiffany Amber completed the line-up. Fresh from making her New York Fashion Week debut as part of the ARISE African Fashion Collective show in February, Folarin-Coker found the Kenyan experience exhilarating. "I think it’s laudable that FAFA has formulated a call to peace, and is showing how this can be to everyone’s benefit through the inspiring works of designers from across the continent," she says. Her collection of 1970s-era floaty gowns in vivid colours was a highlight of the show. "A work of art has the power to change a person’s mind forever - fashion, in its veneration of beauty, is particularly effective because it is also utilitarian; everyone can appreciate fashion in one way or other."
Kenyan-born, New York-based model Tess Njuhi and new face Emily Njoki (who won the Virgin Atlantic model award on the night) headed up a catwalk of beauties modelling everything from KikoRomeo’s afro-punk creations to John Kaveke’s sharp, pinstriped tailoring. Thula Sindi’s animal-print silk dresses exhibited maturity beyond his 25 years. "The collection is about the urban jungle. The pieces are softy structured, elegant and easy," says Sindi. "I want to show people beautiful things because beauty brings peace to everyone’s mind."
Accessory designer Doreen Mashika, who showed her first foray into womenswear at FAFA, matched her signature bags and shoes with simple dresses and separates. "I’ve used a lot of florals, Masai beadwork and bright fabrics. My key look is a see-through dress in an African print," she says. "I came to FAFA to meet other designers from around Africa and be part of its message. African fashion is aware of international trends and can compete - but we have to work hard."
But the finale of the show was left to guest of honour Kofi Ansah. His models strode onto the stage with spears, reappropriating them from weapons of war to symbols of style, wearing heavily embellished miniskirts, corsets and long cloaks. Warrior queens one and all, it was a fitting end to a high octane, celebratory catwalk show. "I am a pan-Africanist and like to support Africa as much as possible," Ansah says. "It is a refreshing change to see something stunning coming out of our continent. Evidently, African designers do it better!"
Words Helen Jennings.
Photography Joseph Hunwick.
Art Direction Lara Ubago.