pages, issue 44LONDON FASHION WEEK SS2008
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London Fashion Week is where fresh talent comes to shine. Helen Jennings spotlights three diamond designers following their catwalk debuts for SS08.
AFSHIN FEIZ
From London via Vancouver, Portland, and Paris, Afshin Feiz says there’s no place like home…
What is your background?
I studied at Studio Bercot School in Paris before going on to work at Thierry Mugler, John Galliano, Christian Lacroix, Gilles Rosier and Nina Ricci.
Describe your design aesthetic
My clothes are very feminine and flirtatious and show a woman's body at it's best. The delicate balance between wearability and originality is more difficult to achieve than simply trying to be different.
What inspires you?
All of my collections tell a story whether it be investigating love through Persian poet Rumi, or exploring the conflict between light and dark as seen through Aztec mythology.
Describe your SS08 collection
It’s sexier than in the past. Skirt lengths are short and back and shoulders are exposed. There are a lot of details, embroideries and flattened pleats that curve like Aztec suns.
Why is it important for you to be part of London Fashion Week?
I have been showing for several seasons at New York Fashion Week. Despite the many advantages there, I felt that being British I missed the creativity of London. At the moment it is the most exciting place to show.
REEM
Iraq-born Reem Alasadi has gone from market stall to upmarket thanks to her futuristic vintage creations…
What is your background?
As a teenager I taught myself to pattern cut and sew by unpicking damaged vintage pieces and sewing them back together again. I sold my customised clothes at Portobello Road Market where I gained a reputation and was approached by John Richmond to style his show in Milan.
Describe your design aesthetic
To completely understand my work one must not be governed by conventional thinking and doctrine. This is an exhilarating portrayal of fashion in the 21st century.
What inspires you?
I draw inspiration from every day life.
Describe your SS08 collection Facettes De La Petite Mort
A diaphanous and distressed silhouette constructed with soft movements layered with dark edginess. Precious re-used lace and treasured metal trims liberated from a loved dress convey a personal history. A fleeting glimpse from a romantic sepia-toned time, promised within the emotional savagery of aggressive street styling.
What does being London-based bring to the label?
In London the unorthodox can dovetail with the unconventional without any loss of creativity.
MODERNIST
Hailing from Newcastle and Sierra Leone respectively,Andrew Jones and Abdul Koroma, were fashion fringe. Now they’re fashion forward…
What are your backgrounds?
We both went to Kingston School of Fashion but didn't actually meet until July 2001, when Abdul went to Italy to work at MaxMara. We worked side-by-side for four years.
We formed Modernist to enter the second Fashion Fringe competition in 2005.
Describe your design aesthetic
Our work has been described as "mixing streamlined design and a taste for abstraction with the desire to dress real women, not glossy fantasies".
What inspires you?
Contrast - luxe and poor,raw and refined,techno and organic. We're also inspired by the use and deliberate misuse of craftsmanship, sometimes doing things 'wrong' on purpose to see what happens.
Describe your SS08 collection Fallen Angels
We looked at Greek myths, in particular the story of Icarus. A key detail is the harness shape, forming a literal backbone upon which the collection is built. Stacked pleats to emulate feathers in various weights are engineered into dresses fit for a modern day goddess.
What does being London-based bring to the label?
We live and work in East London, a very raw urban area. Here, the weird and wonderful mix together and there is a great diversity of cultures and style tribes. We like that our clothes come out of such a rough place.
Words Helen Jennings