Sultans of Bling
Published in Time Out
The inaugural Coutts London Jewellery Week dazzles into town on Wednesday. Hundreds of stores across the city will be celebrating the most prestigious jewellery designer-makers. We meet five of London's hottest glittering young stars who are set to make their mark. Words and styIing Helen Jennings. Photography Rob Greig
FredButler
CONTEMPORARY KITSCH
Essex girl Fred Butler studied fashion and textiles at Brighton University and initially worked as a set designer on large-scale shows, productions and events before deciding small was more beautiful. 'I'm better at making small things,’ says Butler. 'My creativity is in my hands. I have to feel things to make the magic happen. I can't sketch or design before I start making because the fabrics change when you use them.'
Now creating bespoke props, jewellery and accessories, her work has a tongue-in-cheek, theatrical aesthetic. She's made a wearable paper aeroplane for musician Patrick Wolf and devised a point-of-sale display for on-trend label House of Holland based on a chocolate bar. 'Everything I make is colourful, humorous and enlightening and made from bits and pieces I collect. I'm a bit of a magpie and have a lot of sequins. One day I will use them all up.'
Butler launches her first official jewellery collection in the autumn. It's inspired by baby deer, peacocks and children's books. 'My customer will be someone who is open minded and good fun. They won't have to wear exciting clothes; they can simply put on a piece of my jewellery and look incredible!' (fredbutlerstyle. com).
Hannah Martin
REFINED ROCK'N'ROLL
After graduating from Central SainU Martins College of Art and Design, Martin worked for Cartier, Givenchy and Tag Heuer, and developed her taste for the opulent. Her debut collection, in 2006, was titled'It's Only Rock'n'Roll. 'Keith Richards was my muse,’ she confesses. The pieces were very spiky and aggressive looking and really summed up the hedonistic wildness of the rock'n'roll lifestyle.'
Martin's new range, 'The Forgotten Treasure of the Infamous Aguilla Dorada', is inspired by an old archaeologist. 'He was an Indiana Jones-type character who'd been on loads of adventures and wore a massive gold lion's-head ring. I imagined him as a pirate and based my collection on shackles, ropes and rigging.'
She's also just brought out a silver line called 'H by Hannah Martin' that has an equally androgynous appeal. 'I like the idea of making men's jewellery that is glamorous enough for girlfriends to steal.' Boyfriends: beware. (hannah-martin.com).
Sold at: Dover Street Market, 18-19 Dover St.Wl (020 7518 0680/doverstreetmarket.com) Bond Sttube; Liberty, Regent St, Wl (020 77341234/liberty.co.uk) Oxford Circus tube and Two See (shoptosee.com).
Johanne Mills
TRIBAL CHIC
Johanne Mills'sCV reads Iike a WAG's shopping list. The Royal College of Art graduate has worked as a textiles and accessories designer for Donna Karan, Matthew Williamson, Luella, Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton, and has also been an art director and stylist. But it's her collaborations with Brit fashion designer Giles Deacon that inspired her to focus on jewellery. 'I've known Giles foryears and worked on the embroidery for his first collection,' she recalls. That developed into show jewellery, which got a lot of press. I started making jewellery for stylists including Katie Grand.' Her work in demand, she launched her own brand in 2005.
'I enjoy combining something quite delicate with something quite raw, perhaps a slice of meteorite.' Her new range references both armour and psychedelia and fuses semi-precious stones with brass, silver and walnut wood. A truly tactile, quirky collection. (Johanne Mills: 020 7263 9334).
Sold at: Liberty (details as above); Self ridges, 400 Oxford St, Wl (0800 123 400/selfridges, com) Bond St tube.
Lina Peterson
WEARABLE ART
'At college I baked some bread and made a bun ring,' says Swedish Una Peterson, a Royal College of Art alumnus, explaining the beginnings of her jewellery business. 'It was a great piece, but someone stole it at the degree show. I was quite upset! We put up posters but no one returned it.'
Her current work with brooches is less bread-focused, exploring the sentimental significance attached to jewellery, and the interaction between the brooch and the garment it is pinned to. Each brooch, whether it's made from collaged crochet or copper wire and Swarovski crystals dipped in slick, shiny plastic, challenges the boundaries of the materials, and becomes an entirely unique, handcrafted piece. 'I I ike to go with the flow when I make something, so my style has a controlled naivety. I'm interested in colours and textures and what happens when they are brought together. I strive for a quirky awkwardness that gives a piece a bit of tension. You can wear my brooches to make a statement or just brighten up your day.' (linapeterson. Com)
EleanorFord
HAND-CRAFTED GLAMOUR
Eleanor Ford spent her childhood either 'building some strange toy or gadget from wood in my father's shed' or beavering away on her mum's sewing machine, and she hasn't stopped making things since. Ford studied jewellery at Middlesex University and textiles at Goldsmiths College, then worked forjewellers Kirt Holmes and Lesley VikWaddell before setting up on her own in 2006.
The solo collections take inspiration from Ancient Egypt, the Renaissance and art deco with more than a touch of glamour. These periods were more lavish times. I'm drawn to the style of the 1920s and 1930s in particular because I love blues and jazz. Myjewellery is influenced by the past but has a modern style and timeless appeal,' she says.
This season's collection combines marquetry and turned wooden pendants with brightly hued semi-precious stones to create a finely detailed and elegantly sensual collection. The way a piece of jewellery feels on the body is one of the most important things to me.' (eleanorford. com).
Find a one-off trinket
Electrum Gallery
Meet the gallery's talented makers: on Thursday 12, Lina Peterson will be on hand to talk about her work. Electrum Gallery, 21 South Molton St, Wl (020 7629 6325) Bond St tube.
Erickson Beamon
Karen Erickson and Vicki Beamon sell their own works next to delights by other designers.
Erickson Beamon, 38 Elizabeth St, SW1 (020 72590202/erickson beamon.com) Sloane Square tube.
Lesley Craze Gallery
The exhibition Fresh Forms runs from June 10-July 19 and includes the work of Daphne Krinos and Jenny Deans. Lesley Craze Gallery, 33-35a Clerkenwell Green, EC1 (020 7608 0393/ lesleycrazegallery. co. uk) Farringdon tube/rail.
Coutts London Jewellery Week runs for five days from Wed until June 15 and includes exhibitions, catwalk shows, auctions and workshops. Visit londonjewelleryweek. co. uk Hair and make-up: Sadie Hewlett With thanks to Nina Kelly.